Autumn looks that hold the eye for longer than a moment

You leave home in a coat at seven degrees, carry it over your arm at noon and button it to your chin again at night. Autumn looks that hold the eye for longer than a moment come from three layers matched to the temperature, one clear texture and a colour that suits autumn light.

• Three layers. A base, a knitted middle layer, an outer layer for the weather.
• For the office. A blazer, a fine sweater and straight trousers, or a midi dress with a cardigan.
• For the weekend. Jeans, a chunky sweater, a short jacket, comfortable shoes.
• For the evening. Satin or a soft sheen knit, gold, a matching outer layer.
• Colours and textures. Browns, burgundy, plum, navy and cream in wool, corduroy, suede, satin.
• What to avoid. Summer fabrics, two big volumes, a coat as long as your skirt.

How do you build an autumn look from three layers?

Build an autumn look from three layers: a thin base, a knitted middle layer and an outer layer chosen for the temperature. Each one comes off or goes back on as the day warms.

The base is a shirt, a fine roll neck or a dress, plain and close to the body. The middle layer is a sweater, a cardigan or a knitted waistcoat: it keeps you warm and carries the colour or texture of the look. The outer layer is a trench coat, a jacket or a coat, chosen for the weather, not the occasion.

The first and third rows show how the middle layer changes: at fifteen degrees you can skip it, at five it does most of the work. A mid-weight sweater is the most versatile, because it fits under most coats without bunching in the sleeves.

The layers should also end at different lengths: the base at the waist, the sweater at the hip, the coat below the knee. Two layers ending at one point draw a line that shortens your legs.

Which autumn looks work in the office?

In the office, the best autumn looks are built on a blazer, a fine sweater and straight trousers, or on a midi dress with a cardigan. Both stay comfortable through eight hours at a desk.

• Blazer and sweater. A fine wool sweater under a blazer gives two warm layers and keeps the formal tone.
• Midi dress and cardigan. A knitted dress with a hip-length cardigan is softer than a suit, just as neat.
• Creased trousers and a roll neck. A fine roll neck tucked into high-waisted trousers lengthens the silhouette.
• Shirt and waistcoat. A tailored waistcoat over a shirt replaces a blazer on warm office days.

Keep office colours calm: graphite, navy, brown and cream as the base, one stronger shade in a sweater or a scarf. For more relaxed workplaces, the guide to business casual style shows how to soften these sets.

Indoors a base and a fine knit are often enough, so the middle layer should look good on its own.

What should you wear for an autumn weekend out of town?

For an autumn weekend, wear jeans or corduroy trousers, a chunky sweater, a short jacket and shoes you can walk a few kilometres in.

Straight or wide jeans in a dark wash go with almost everything. On top, a cable knit or a sweater in a strong colour, because at the weekend it leads the look. Keep the outer layer short: a quilted or suede jacket. Add a scarf and a hat for the wind.

Pack in layers, not complete sets. Two bases, two sweaters and one outer layer give several combinations for three days, as the guide on what to pack for autumn holidays explains.

What to wear for an autumn evening: dinner, theatre or a date?

For an autumn evening, choose satin or a knit with a soft sheen, gold accessories and an outer layer that suits the rest. Texture, not embellishment, makes it feel special.

• Dinner. An ankle-length satin skirt with a chunky sweater and gold earrings pairs two textures, nothing more.
• Theatre. A long-sleeved midi dress or a tailored two-piece in a deep colour is easy to sit in.
• A date. A knitted wrap dress with heeled ankle boots looks sensual, not overdone.
• Drinks after work. A satin top and jewellery take an office look into the evening.

Under warm lamplight satin catches a soft glow and moves with every step, so one strong accessory is enough. For the theatre, a sleeve and a longer hem are a safe choice.

The coat is part of the evening look too: in the colour of your dress, or one shade darker, it keeps the outline consistent.

Which colours and textures should you wear this autumn?

This autumn, wear warm, deep colours: browns from caramel to espresso, burgundy, plum and navy, paired with cream and ecru. Wool, corduroy, suede and satin make even a one-colour look interesting.

Brown replaces black as the base, because it is warmer and softer by the face. The guide to colours that go with brown covers what to pair it with. Burgundy and plum add depth in the evening, navy brings order to the office, cream and ecru lighten the palette.

• Wool. Smooth wool is the warmest, a cable knit adds volume.
• Corduroy. Ribbed trousers and skirts give even a simple look autumn character.
• Suede and faux suede. A matte, soft jacket warms any look and pairs well with denim.
• Satin. Its sheen breaks up matte autumn textures and takes a look into the evening.

The best autumn looks pair two of these textures, such as a chunky wool sweater with a satin skirt, or a suede jacket with jeans. Three at once leave none of them room.

What should you not combine in autumn looks?

A few pairings that take the lightness out of autumn looks:

• Avoid summer fabrics without a layer. Bare linen and thin cotton look like holiday leftovers.
• Never pair two big volumes. An oversized sweater with wide trousers and a roomy coat erases your shape.
• Do not wear a coat as long as your skirt. Two hems at one point draw a horizontal line and shorten your legs.
• Avoid three strong colours at once. Burgundy, mustard and bottle green compete; keep one accent.

Frequently asked questions

Can you wear white in autumn?

You can, best in warm shades such as ecru, cream or off-white, and in heavier fabrics. White wool knits or ecru jeans look autumnal, thin white cotton stays with summer.

How many pieces do you need for an autumn capsule wardrobe?

About 20 to 25 pieces: a few bases, four or five sweaters and cardigans, two or three pairs of trousers or skirts, one or two dresses and two outer layers.

Which fabrics do not crease under a coat?

Wool-blend knits, dense viscose and fabrics with a touch of elastane crease the least. Linen and thin cotton crease fastest, so under a coat you wear all day, choose a knit.

Go back to that coat you button up in the morning, carry at noon and put on again at night. With three well-chosen layers, one clear texture and an autumn colour underneath, the look works as well at eight in the morning as at ten at night. On colder days, add one of the autumn jackets and let the layers do the rest.