Suede jacket: how to style it for autumn

An October afternoon, nine degrees, and a soft matte jacket in the shade of dark chocolate that warms up everything you wear with it. A suede jacket in autumn works with jeans, a floral dress and a long skirt, and it looks best next to something smoother than itself.

• Which jacket. Short, hip-length or belted at the waist, in a dark, warm brown.
• Every day. With dark jeans, a crisp white shirt or a fine plain sweater.
• With a dress. As a contrast to a fluid floral dress or a long skirt.
• Colours. Cream, ecru, burgundy, navy and bottle green beside chocolate brown.
• Care. Genuine suede needs waterproofing, suede-effect fabric is far less delicate.
• What to avoid. Suede from head to toe and any layer longer than the jacket.

Which suede jacket for autumn?

For autumn, choose a short suede jacket that ends at the hip or ties at the waist, in a dark, warm brown. That length suits trousers and midi dresses alike.

A dropped shoulder line gives a relaxed, slightly oversized shape, so a sweater fits underneath. A concealed placket smooths the front and makes the jacket look calmer than a style with a visible zip. A belt at the hem lets you change the proportions: fastened, it marks the waist, left open, it keeps the cut loose. Among autumn jackets, look for this length if you want one piece for everything.

Suede has a matte, faintly velvety surface that swallows shine in low autumn light and shifts tone as you move, wherever the nap lies in a different direction. That is why dark brown never looks flat on it, and the jacket gains depth without a single embellishment.

What to wear with a suede jacket day to day?

Day to day, a suede jacket looks best with dark jeans, a smooth shirt or a fine sweater. Matte suede needs a sleeker surface beside it to really show.

• Dark jeans. Straight or slightly flared jeans and heeled ankle boots make a city look that needs nothing more.
• A white shirt. Cool white against chocolate brown brightens the face and gives the look a tidy tone.
• A fine sweater. A cream or beige sweater in a smooth knit slips under the jacket without adding bulk.
• Trousers in the jacket's shade. A tonal look in two browns lengthens the silhouette and reads as deliberate.

A suede jacket with a dress and a long skirt

With a dress, suede creates one of the best autumn contrasts, because its soft, weighty texture cuts through the sweetness of a fluid fabric and a floral print. It works best with a midi dress that ends below the knee and shows a little of the boot.

With floral dresses in viscose or crepe, choose a jacket shorter than the hip or tied at the waist, so the skirt has room to move. A long skirt follows the same rule of proportion: a short jacket leaves the waistline visible, and an ankle-length skirt balances the looser cut on top. Satin or knitted skirts in a deep colour turn suede into a dinner look, and all you need with them is ankle boots and one gold accessory. If you wonder what to wear under the jacket, the guide to the different types of blouses helps you find a shape that holds the look together.

Which colours go with chocolate suede?

Chocolate suede pairs best with cream, ecru, burgundy, navy and bottle green, because each of these colours has enough depth to stand next to dark brown. The table below shows what each pairing does and where it works.

The cream row and the burgundy row point in two different directions: the first lightens the palette and suits everyday wear, the second deepens it and carries the look into the evening. For more on combining warm shades, read about the colours that go with brown in autumn looks.

How to care for a suede jacket on rainy days?

How you care for a suede jacket depends on whether it is genuine suede or a fabric with a suede finish, so check the composition label before you do anything. Genuine suede is leather and dislikes water, while polyester with a suede-effect finish copes with damp far better.

• Genuine suede. Treat the jacket with a suede protector spray before you first wear it and repeat every few weeks, especially in the rainy season.
• Suede-effect fabric. After rain, simply let it dry on a hanger away from the radiator, and follow the care label when it comes to washing.
• After a soaking. Never dry the jacket on a radiator or with a hairdryer, because heat stiffens the nap and leaves marks.
• Everyday care. A soft brush drawn in one direction lifts the nap and restores the matte finish.

The same rules apply to suede accessories, as the guide on how to clean a suede bag explains.

What not to wear with a suede jacket?

A few pairings that take away the character of suede:

• Avoid suede from head to toe. A suede jacket, skirt and shoes worn together merge into one matte block with no contrast.
• Never wear a layer longer than the jacket. A cardigan peeking out below the hem cuts the silhouette and looks accidental.
• Skip a chunky, fluffy sweater. Two strong textures close together compete, and it gets crowded under the jacket.
• Avoid a brown of a different temperature right next to the jacket. A cool brown beside warm chocolate looks like a mistake rather than a tonal look.

Frequently asked questions

Is a suede jacket suitable for rain?

Genuine suede is not made for a downpour, and even waterproofed it only handles a short shower. A suede-effect fabric, polyester for example, copes better with damp, but for longer rain a parka is still the safer choice.

What temperature can you wear a suede jacket in?

An unlined suede jacket works from roughly 10 to 18 degrees Celsius. On a colder day, wear a sweater underneath, and below 8 degrees swap it for a wool coat.

Suede or leather: which jacket is better for autumn?

Leather handles rain better and needs less care, so it is the safer choice for grey, wet weeks. Suede looks warmer and feels softer, which is why it works better on dry days and in looks built around a dress.

Go back to that October afternoon and the jacket in dark chocolate. All it takes is a smoother fabric, one colour from the autumn palette and, underneath, one of the fine-knit sweaters.